Stitches and Seams

Mod 1. Stitches and Seams

Stitches to Practice GENERAL STITCHING TECHNIQUES: Stitches should last forever, stitch thread and needle need to match the fabric. Hand stitching is used when Machines would ruin the fabric THE THREAD: should be a shade darker than the fabric. For fine sewing the thread should be 14" long, longer than this it would weaken as its pulled through the fabric, tacking thread can be longer. Keep thread short so ably arm is used and not shoulder and neck. cut thread at an angle and if difficult to thread use threader or put white card behind the needle. Double Back Stitch: Beginning and End. Double back in same fist insertion 2 or 3 times for strengthTEMPORARY STITCHES TACKING OR BASTING: For marking patterns on fabric or holding garment until permanent stitching TAILOR TACKING: to transfer pattern markings onto fabric, To be done after the pattern is cut but before pattern paper is removed. DOUBLE-STITCH TAILOR TACKING: For marking position of darts, buttons, buttonholes, pockets, pleats, tucks, draping, etc., for complex patterns use different colors. use double back stitch and make tails SINGLE STITCH TAILOR TACKING-double thread, picking up only a 1/4" onto the needle and 1" on tight curves and 2" on straight seams. To remove snip on right and wrong sides leaving a tuft. TRACE TACKING- Stays in fine or slippery material. Cut off the seam allowance of a paper pattern and slip a cardboard piece in between layers of fabric. Use dress makers tacking to mark material on only one layer of fabric. At corners continue to the edge of the fabric, cut, and restart. Remember balance and dart marks. Repeat on second side. TACKING SEAMS- Use back stitches at beginning and end, use correct tacking stitch, and pin pins at right angle to the fabric. EVEN TAKING- 3/8" length, not strong UNEVEN TACKINg- strong, 1/8" stitch at 1/2" intervals DRESSMAKERS TACKING- strongest, use for firm joint, 2 1/8" stitches, 1/8" apart, at 1/2" intervals * look this one up MACHINE TACKING-check machine manual for tacking stitches, loosen the tension of the upper thread so it can be removed easily by pulling lower thread. SLIP TACKING- use right side of fabric or fitting alterations or joint stripes, checks, etc.. Pin at right angles to the seams. Fold one edge under and pin folded edge to other edge and use even tacking through 3 layers. DIAGONAL TACKING-Use when more than one layer is required such as mounting a collar to interface or fabric to underlining. -VERTICAL DIAGONAL TACKING-verticle stitch 1/4" at 3/4" intervals -HORIZONTAL DIAGONAL TACKING-1/2" stitch, drop 3/4" diagonally, 1/2" stitch, keep stitches parallel PERMANENT HAND STITCHING-if hands are sweaty use talcum powder. Be cheerful and have the time to all the hand seeing at one time so stitches are even and work is rhythmic. Keep work above on a table with 12" to 14" thread, have good light and materials prepped. NEEDLES AND THREAD- use in-betweens for hand stitching or sharps. Use table for proper needle and thread. RUNNING STITCH-Begin and end with double back stitch, use tinny even stitches and small as the fabric will allow, 1/8" on fine fabric. BACK STITCH- extra strong, use double back first and last. take a short stitch forward, reenter at first insertion point, then take a stitch twice as long as the first. HALF BACK STITCH-Less strong than the back stitch, go halfway backwards before the insertion point. SMALL BACK STITCH-use to sew zippers. Go back only one thread COMBINATION STITCH-A reinforced running stitch. every 3 running stitches take one back stitch. GATHERING-work two parallel rows of fine running stitches 1/8"-1/4" between rows, pull both end to gather and wind ends around a pin to hold until seam is finished * for fast gathering, sew 1 row of zig zag stitch with embroidery thread. 5/8" from raw edge, tack 2" thread with straight pin and don't catch with needle. leave another 2" at other end and pull to gather. after seams are finished pull embroidery thread out and wrap around a card to save it. Hemming HEMING SLANT- 1)Go right to left, use the hemming bias so the pull is on straight grain of material to prevent bubbling. 2) Run the thread form left to right throughout the fold of the hem go through hem forward 1/8" picking up a thread or 2 material and slant back throughout the edge of hem *don't show on the other side if the material. HEMING VERTICAL-good for hemming machine stitches (cuffs), every stitch should go through a machine stitch. Right to left, use like slant hemming, collect 1 or 2 threads of second fabric. SLIP HEMMING- Right to left, needle through hem, pick up 1 or 2 threads, push needle forward 1/8" to 1/4" (depending on fabric) finish by taking back stitch in the fold and running needle back through the fold. SLIP STITCH HERRING BONE OVERCASTING OVER SEWING Permanent machine stitches Strong but not suited to certain fabrics Choose a thread that is a shade darker than the fabric and check that stitch, size, and tension are correct Press garment first, stitch on right side when possible, use balance wheel to sew in difficult spots Let the machine pull, just guide it. Use chart or machine manual for what needle and thread for fabric Dress makers usually change their needles every week Stitching PRACTICE-stitch unthreaded alone paper lines to practice straight lines and corners. do corners by lifting the foot but leaving the needle in, turn paper 90 degrees, put foot down and sew. PRACTICE- sew threaded lines and corners on striped fabric PRACTICE-Press and tack a hem and stitch on right side of the hem keeping straight and close but not going over the edge. STITCH SIZE- Amatters use too small a stitch for the correct fabric, number of layers, or fibers, Use table for guidelines or machine manual. Test the machine by sewing different number of stitch and measuring the number of stitches to the inch. STAY STITCHING GATHERING FINISHING RAW EDGES STITCHING LACE BUTTON HOLES BUTTONS EMBROIDERY STITCHES Basic Seams To sew two pieces together that withstand washing and wear forever. Use proper seam for fabric. OPEN SEAM EDGE STITCHING OVERCASTING-BY HAND LOOP STITCH OVERCASTING-BYMACHINE BINDING PINKING FRENCH SEAM FLAT FELLED SEAM OVERLAID SEAM Comercial Patterns RAKING YOUR MEASUREMENTS- Comercial patterns need to be altered for personal sizing. Take your measurements 1-23 with usual undergarments on, take better measurements with someone else's help. FASHIONABLE SKIRT LENGTH- deduct length from measurements 19-23 BUYING A PATTERN-keep in mind the season, flattery on body, fabric you like and will care for, how often it will be worn and current fashions HOW TO PREPARE A PATTERN-press paper with a cool iron, label bag for pieces and put in a covered box designated for project, put clothing picture on the box. Write your own measurements next to the measurements on the pattern Pattern Sizes CHECKING YOUR SIZE- buy patterns closest to your measurements, it's easy to alter hip and bust level. *Size chart in lesson 1. EASE- Patterns made at exact measurements are too tight, loosen to have more ease. Girls and women have different eases. BUST +3" WAIST +1" HIP +2" *EASE TABLE IN LESSON 1 CATEGORIES- junior, petit, etc. are base on body type on ages MAKING SIMPLE ALTERATIONS-patterns have lines or instructions where to shorten or lengthen, or perhaps stitching lines for seams. If theres no instructions make alterations in two places so as to not throw off the style. *Fig. 42 for where to alter bodice front, skirt, one piece dress, sleeves and notes on altering.