formed due to the transfer of
energy and the direction of the
prevailing wind
DEPENDS ON: the
distance the wind has
blown, the speed its
travelling, and how long
its been travelling.
destructive waves
occur in stormy conditions,
high wave height in
proportion to length, high
frequency, high energy, large
fetch, responsible for erosion,
greater backwash than
swash, steep beach
constructive waves
occur in calm conditions, low wave
height in proportion to length, low
frequency, low energy, transport
material via long shore drift, responsible
for deposition, greater swash than back
wash
LONG SHORE DRIFT
beach sediment is transported along the coast by
waves .
LANDFORMS
BEACHES
DEPOSITIONAL LANDFORM, formed by
CONSTRUCTIVE WAVES, consist of SAND
OR SHINGLE, made up of VARYINGLY
SIZED SEDIMENT DUE TO LOCAL
GEOLOGY AND WAVE ENERGY
BAYS & HEADLANDS
EROSIONAL LANDFORM: bays and
headlands develop on discordant
coastlines, eg. a mixture of hard and
soft rock. commonly found where cliffs
have fault lines/ distinctive joints.
the soft rock eg. gravel, sand and clay
erode quickly, forming bays, eg.
lulworth cove, devon.
the hard (resistant) rocks eg. limestone
and chalk take much longer to erode
and are left jutting out into the sea, as
headlands-, eg. lands end, cornwall
WAVE CUT PLATFORMS
EROSIONAL LANDFORM: the erosion of
cliffs by undercut waves at their base
creates a wave cut notch- this leaves
an overhang.
the overhanging rock collapses and
the cliff retreats inland, resulting in
a wace cut platform
CAVES, ARCHES, STACKS & STUMPS
EROSIONAL LANDFORM: CAVES. formed by
hydraulic action widening cracks in the cliff face ,
generally found on headlands formed from harder
resistant rock.
ARCHES: a cave that is eroded all the way
through the cliff face, eg. durdle door.
STACKS: the apex of the arch collapses as it is
weakened by weathering, leaving a singular pillar
out to sea, eg. canna stack
STUMPS: the stack collapses due to erosion and
weathering, resulting in a collapsed stack, or a
stump . (eg. old harry, dorset.)
SPITS, BARS & TOMBOLOS
DEPOSITIONAL LANDFORMS:
SPITS. created by longshore
drift, a stretch of beach material
is carried out to sea from the
mainland, eg. spurn point,
yorkshire. the spit can change
shape dependent on wind
direction.
BARS: in the same way as a spit, a
stretch of beach sediment
reaches across a bay, connecting
two headlands eg. Loe bar. a
lagoon forms behind the bar,
which eventually becomes a salt
marsh.
TOMBOLO: a bar or spit that
reaches an island, eg. st ninians
COASTAL PROCESSES
EROSION- wears away rock and
removes eroded material
abrasion
pebbles picked up by
waves are flung at cliffs ,
wearing the cliffs away
attrition
pebbles carried by
waves collide with
other particles and
become round and
smooth
corrosion
rocks and minerals are
dissolved by water
hydraulic action
waves hitting the cliffs force air into
cracks- the pressure created breaks
up the rocks.
WEATHERING- wears away
rocks but leaves weathered
material in situ
biological
tree roots and burrowing
animals break soil
structure
physical
eg. freeze thaw (water damage),
onion skin (expanding and
contracting due to
temperature)
chemical
eg. acid rain, attacking alkali
limestone
MASS MOVEMENT
rock falls
FRAGMENTS OF ROCK created by
WEATHERING FALL to the CLIFF
BASE
slumping
the CLIFF BASE is ERODED BY
THE SEA and the TOP IS
SATURATED BY RAIN- the cliff
starts to slide.
soil creep
SLOW MOVEMENT of SATURATED
SOIL creeping down a slope,
resulting in TERRACETTES
COASTAL RECESSION
CLIFF EROSION CAUSES CLIFFS TO RECEDE,
AND THEREFORE THE COASTLINE
IMPACTS
NATURAL:
LOSS OF HABITAT
(durlston bay, dorset,
home to 250 species of
birds)
HUMAN:
LOSS OF PROPERTY
(durlston bay, dorset,
Happisburg, norfolk) LOSS
OF BUSINESSES (holbeck
hotel, yorkshire, 1993.)
issues caused: DIFFICULT TO GET
INSURANCE, LOWERS PROPERTY
PRICES, LIMITED GOVERNMENT
SUPPORT FOR HOME OWNERS
CAUSES
FETCH- a larger open body of water eg. the
atlantic means a larger fetch, s o bigger more
destructive waves cause more erosion
GEOLOGY- harder more resistant rock eg. in the
north west of the UK erodes slowly compared to
soft rocks aka clay and sand in th south east of
the uk.
COASTAL MANAGEMENT- coastal defences
can slow down the rate of erosion and
protect the coastline.
COASTAL
FLOODING
CAUSES
causes are: HIGH TIDE LEVELS,
STORM SURGES the ACTION OF
WAVES (influenced by wind speed)
and RISING SEA LEVELS (caused by
global warming and thermal
expansion)
PREVENTION
BARRIERS to protect against high tides,
aka the thames barrier, FLOOD PLAINS-
areas of open space to allow floodwater
to spill over. FLOOD WALLS built long
rivers, eg. the thames
PLANNING
PREDICTION: the EA monitors sea
conditions to help predict potential
flooding, EARLY WARNING SYSTEMS
are put in place, FLOOD EDUCATION
eg. what to do in the event of a flood ,
ESCAPE ROUTES, ADVICE from services
such as the EA nand the health
protection agency.
areas at risk are
LOWLYING, aka the
NETHERLANDS, the
MALDIVES,
BANGLADESH,
NORFOLK
manmade elements
COASTAL ENGINEERING
HARD
traditional approach,
involves building
structures
CURVED SEA WALLS
PROS: protects cliffs and
buildings, reassures
home owners, can
prevent coastal flooding
CONS: ugly, can cause
erosion of beach in front,
wall may erode,
maintenance is constant
and expensive. costs
£5000- £100000 to build
per linear metre
eg. blackpool, porthleven
GROYNES
PROS: prevents long shore drift, builds up beach
(acts as natural defense against erosion, attracts
tourists), cheapish to build at £2000 per m
CONS: can cause erosion further along the
coast, ugly, needs replacing regularly
eg. eastbourne
RIP RAP
PROS: absorbs wave energy, helps
build up the beach, relatively
cheap (£1000- £3000 per m)
CONS: not as effective as other
methods, transport can be difficult
eg. dawlish warren
OFFSHORE REEF
PROS: prevents erosion of beach,
disperses wave power
CONS: expensive (£5000 per m),
interferes with fishing,
eg. bournemouth,
happisburgh
SOFT
better for nature,
focuses on tourism and
the environment
DUNE STABILISATION, LONG ROCK-
sand dunes absorb wave energy and
educe coastal erosion- stabiliation
prevents them from receeding
BEACH REPLENISHMENT,
CARLYON BAY- prevents the
loss of coastal footpaths, a
natural defense against
erosion
happisburgh
SMALL TOWN, on
NORFOLKS NORTH COAST
THE ISSUE: one of the fastest
eroding places globally, at 9m
per year
WHY: the village is built on soft
rock which erodes quickly. the
cliffs are only 6-10m high and are
made of laminated clay. the north
sea has a large fetch, resulting in
large destructive waves .
IMPACTS: house prices have dropped from
£80 000 to £1, residents will be made
homeless, over 20 square miles of farming
land would be lost.
PREVENTION: wooden revetments, no
longer maintained as too expensive. off
shore reef, only partially effective. the
government is recommending managed
retreatt as happisburgh not worth saving-
CCAG and local residents disagree