A collection is co-ordinated to
seasonal and product requirements.
A season is divided into a
segment - each segment is
made up of items according
to style/fabrics and colours
- forming a fashion trend
For example a 'weekend
theme' or 'classic theme'
A fashion cycle consists of - information
gathering - collection design and presentation -
production - delivery - Takes proxy one year
from start to finish - a Winter collection cycle
will begin in Sept the previous year for it to hit
the shop floor/ Summer collection - begin
March - hitting the floor the following March in
time for the Summer
The Collection
Process
Information gathering - seasonal trend info -
silhouettes/colours, target market research, new
fibres/fabrics/prints - trade fairs - Source inspiration from the
street/culture/social trends/history of design. Styling themes
are developed - and these are re-interpreted into styles suited
to the needs of the target market and existing customers -
sketches are made and a story board presented - these are
discussed at a collection appraisal meeting
How to start a
Collection
Research - A successful collection needs an enormous amount of research, investigation
and planning - Designers need to have clear understanding of their target market
needs/consumer needs, as well as the companies position in the market.
Issues to be considered are - is there a customer base for the product? Is
the product currently available? Does it have added value?
Market
Research
Conduct a 'comp shop' - comparing stock in competitor
retail outlets. Assess quality of fabric, construction and
detailing. Look at pricing and place of origin.
Designers and Buyers may look at the historical
buying habits of the consumer, sales figures for
the previous season, exclusively and price.
Difficult to predict how many of each unit will sell - how
much fabric is needed for production, may need to re-order
within a season. Too much fabric results in tied up stock,
too little fabric results in lost sales and reduced profit.
Identifying the
customer
By careful investigation and competitor analysis
- designers can identify a specific market area
and customer.
Designers can create an imaginary situation - characters in a journey, scenario. This visualising and
defining colours, fabrics and shapes without constraints. A romantic approach to Client Profiling.
Established designers can access customer sales and market information - taking into account social,
economic influences - how customers lives are defined by a range of factors.
Successful producer can define their customers from the past to the
present to the future,. However catwalk pieces can be promotional
pieces - not designed on a commercial basis.
Target Market
Needs
Whilst fashion expresses a creative vision and process - wearability is also subjective. The
consumer can make personal judgements about self image, acceptability and suitability, depending
on occasion or lifestyle. Todays consumer is inundated with fashion choices, the medias infatuation
with fashion, celebrity and influence provides enormous coverage of how fashion and style can be
portrayed. Showpieces excite the fashion press and gain maximum coverage.
Research &
Development
Research is an on-going aspect of a
designers role. The designer needs to
consider what is the overall look or
theme of a collection.
Moodboards - Images, drawings
for inspiration, sourced garments,
fabric swatches, sometimes
vintage, trims - key to the new
collection.
Discuss shapes and fabrics - patterns and toile are prepared. Toiles are recut and refined a
number of times before reality. May hire a model - A fit/house model. Refine proportions, detail
placement, movement and the overall look. Once products are bought for resale - not for
models in a show - they are resized, for average body measurements - Anthropometric Data.
May need to reflect the type of customer.
Freelance team members may
also be employed -
knitwear/embroiderers/tailors.
Fabric
Fairs
A key part of the designers role
is sourcing fabric.
They will visit trade fairs twice a year before the
start of the following season to source the newest
fabrics. Premiere Vision is the most famous of the
fashion fabric and trend exhibitions and draws
designers and manufacturers from across the world.
The fairs display their ranges on fabric hangers, often organised as trends or stories.
Designers and manufacturers visit these exhibitions with a view to order sample lengths,
which are delivered in time to plan and develop the new seasons ranges. Most exhibitors at
Premiere Vision are happy to deal with businesses of all sizes for sample orders, but have a
required minimum order to ensure production is viable for particular prints, colour ways or
fabrics. For smaller orders, manufacturers may levy a surcharge. Some established
designers may request certain fabrics or colour ways as an exclusive purchase.
Trend
Forecasting
Traditionally, trends have been identified and packaged for designers as forecasting
packages, where colours, yarns, silhouettes and graphics are collated into books or
presented online and used to predict key looks fort the forthcoming season.
Trend forecasting companies will give presentations internally to larger organisations to
establish a direction based on the clients needs - Such as 'Trend Union'.
Prediction manuals are used as starting points for designers next
collections. As fashion has evolved and information sources are now widely
available online, the trend forecasting industry has responded to provide a
wider range of products. These include trend intelligence, trend
management, international retail trends, customer trends, advertising
trends, advertising, catwalk shows and technology trends, all available by
subscription.
Influences are taken from tear sheets, photographs, objects,
fabric taken from source painting or any other imagery that
compliments the story - these are used to create trend
boards. A series of colour swatches can be dip dyed to
create a colour palette.
Past Exam
Question - June
2013
Well designed, markable
products are vital for the
success of companies who
manufacture textile
products.
Analyse the value of two of the following for the designer of textile products: -
trade fairs, - trend prediction companies, - shop reports/sales figures. You
should give examples to support the point you make. (12 marks)
Trade Fairs
Trade fairs are when manufacturers of yarn, fabric, components or
clothing showcase and sell their new ranges, e.g. Premiere Vision
(France), Pitti Filati (Italy). They also show the colour predictions for
the forthcoming seasons.
Designers and product manufacturers are able to view samples
and order the newest materials to ensure that their products are
up-to-date. Once the textile manufacturer has enough orders, the
material will be produced.
Designer shows and ready-to-wear trade fairs take place twice a year,
when the fashions for the following season are showcased. These are
an opportunity for new designers to show their ideas, and for other
designers to see what others are doing.
Trade Fairs are an efficiently for a textile manufacturer to reach a large
audience of potential buyers, to meet other manufacturers and
suppliers, and to see what competitors are offering.
Designers may attend these fairs to source a particular type of
fabric, or they may go to be inspired by the latest materials so they
will be able to ensure that their designs are on-trend.
Trend Prediction Companies
Trend prediction companies are big businesses in the fashion world, and
they exert a strong influence on many areas of textile and fashion design.
The companies look at trends which have been successful for some time and assess
whether they are likely to continue or whether it is time for a change.
They collect information from many sources, e.g. catwalk shows, street fashion, world events,
past trends, art and science, film and media, and around the globe aided by the internet.
They sell their information to other companies who do not have the time or expertise to do their own
research, so that they can be confident that their designs will be on trend and thus likely to be successful.
Not all designers use a TPC; some prefer to be trendsetters themselves, or develop their own
niche market.
Shop Reports / Sales Data
Shop Reports/Sale figures are an analysis of what consumers are buying, and
what shops are stocking.
They can give an overview of trends, especially those shops catering for the high end
market, where fashions from new and up and coming designers may be sold.
This may help new designers to be recognised and to see what is popular with
consumers in different segments of the market.
What consumers actually buy is often an accurate indicator of what
they want and what they value.
But this date can also be unreliable, especially if other factors disrupt, or
activate, retail activity.
Product Life Cycles
A product life cycle considers all stages of a products life
from the initial idea and concept through product
development to the disposal of the product after it has
finished its useful life. An understanding of the impact upon
the environment of a product throughout its lifetime would
be considered during the concept stage.
The manufacturing cycle would need to be considered under
processing. An understanding of the impact of the product on
the consumer, how long the selling period may be.
Consideration of the care and maintenance of the product in the utilization
stage and the options and possibility of disposal including recycling. What the
expected period of use is and the possibility for product replacement.
Fad Cycle
The Fad cycle would be represented by a steep introduction and
growth of a new ‘high fashion/ radical new story/ must have
fashion product’. There would be little or no maturity stage and the
product sales decline as quickly as they grew, as once the product
is accepted it is no longer a fashion Fad. The sales cycle for a fad
will tend to be rather short. It may be a seasonal product, eg for
Xmas, Jubilee.
Classic
product cycle
The Classic product cycle would
see a gradual period of
introduction and once accepted
and established as a classic
product the maturity stage
would continue in an undulating
pattern, with no obvious decline
in the sales cycle. Maintaining
popularity with its target
markets. E.g. ‘little black dress’.
Standard
product cycle
The standard fashion cycle
follows a bell curve with a
gradual period of growth and
the plateau at the maturity
stage is the longest part of the
cycle, then there is a gradual
decline in sales. E.g. leggings.
Fad
A Fad design is a new ‘high fashion/ radical new story/ must have fashion product’. It is characterised by
a quick introduction and growth with little or no maturity stage, and the product sales decline as
quickly as they grew, as once the product is accepted it is no longer a fashion Fad. The sales cycle for a
Fad will tend to be rather short. It may be a seasonal product, eg for Xmas, special event.
Iconic Designs
Iconic designs are ones that have stood the test of time and have
an enduring appeal. They are instantly recognisable and never
really go out of fashion. Often considered to be classic designs,
they have a gradual period of introduction and once accepted
and established, the maturity stage continues with no obvious
decline in the sales cycle. Minor changes to accommodate the
latest trends help maintain popularity with target markets, may
inspire other designers.
Trade Fairs
A trade fair: Trade fairs are exhibitions where many different
companies related to the textiles industry can showcase and
demonstrate their latest products, see what their rivals are doing,
look at recent market trends and consider opportunities to
develop new products. Many trade fairs attract companies from all
over the world. Some trade fairs are open to the public, while
others can only be attended by company representatives and
members of the press. Designer visit trade fairs in order to study
trend forecasts to see in which direction fashion trends are
moving. This enables them to make sure that their designs for
future seasons will be on trend and sell well. They will also be able
to look at new developments in fabric and components and
consider possible ways in which they can be incorporated into their
designs. Examples include Premiere Vision.
Trade Fairs are when manufacturers of yarn, fabric, components or clothing showcase and sell their new ranges, e.g.
Première Vision (France), Pitti Filati (Italy). They also show the colour predictions for the forthcoming seasons.
Designers and product manufacturers are able to view samples and order the newest materials to ensure that their
products are up-to-date. Once the textile manufacturer has enough orders, the material will be produced. Designer
shows and ready-to-wear trade fairs take place twice a year, when the fashions for the following season are showcased.
These are an opportunity for new designers to show their ideas, and for other designers to see what others are doing.
Trade Fairs are an efficient way for a textile manufacturer to reach a large audience of potential buyers, to meet other
manufacturers and suppliers, and to see what competitors are offering. They are very expensive to run.
Designers may attend these fairs to source a particular type of fabric, or they may go to be inspired by the latest
materials so they will be able to ensure that their designs are on-trend.
Trend Prediction Companies
Trend prediction companies are big business in the fashion world, and they exert a strong influence on many areas of
textile and fashion design. The companies look at trends which have been successful for some time and assess whether
they are likely to continue or whether it is time for a change. They collect information from many sources, e.g. catwalk
shows, street fashion, world events, past trends, art and science, film and media, and around the globe aided by the
internet. They sell their information to other companies who do not have the time or expertise to do their own
research, so that they can be confident that their designs will be on trend and thus likely to be successful. Not all
designers use a TPC; some prefer to be trendsetters themselves, or develop their own niche market.
Shop Reports/Sales
Data
Shop Reports/Sale figures are an analysis of what consumers are buying, and what shops are stocking. They can give
an overview of trends, especially those shops catering for the high end market, where fashions from new and up and
coming designers may be sold. This may help new designers to be recognised and to see what is popular with
consumers in different segments of the market. What consumers actually buy is often an accurate indicator of what
they want and what they value. But this data can also be unreliable, especially if other factors disrupt, or activate,
retail activity.