Waves

Label this diagram of a wave

Places these wave categories into size order (smallest waves to largest). 1. [blank_start]Capillary[blank_end] 2. [blank_start]Chop[blank_end] 3. [blank_start]Swell[blank_end] 4. [blank_start]Seiche[blank_end] 5. [blank_start]Tsunami[blank_end] 6. [blank_start]Tide[blank_end]

Fetch is the length of water over which wind has blown, the longer the fetch, the smaller and shorter the waves

Wave generation relies on 4 principle factors; wind [blank_start]velocity[blank_end], wind duration, fetch and the original sea state

A [blank_start]fully developed[blank_end] sea = a sea state where the waves generated by the wind are as large as they can be under current conditions of wind velocity and fetch

Progressive waves have two kinds of motion; the [blank_start]forward[blank_end] motion and the [blank_start]orbital[blank_end] motion of the water particles

Wave mass transport is also called [blank_start]Stokes[blank_end] drift

The orbital diameters described by water particles beneath waves [blank_start]decreasing[blank_end] rapidly with distance below the water surface.

[blank_start]Constructive[blank_end] Waves: interference deepens the wave troughs and raises the wave crests, producing a larger wave [blank_start]Destructive[blank_end] Waves: interference reduces the height of the larger wave

Seas are irregular in the [blank_start]fetch[blank_end] area because of constructive and destructive wave interference. Outside of the fetch, a regular ocean swell develops as waves sort themselves according to speed by the process of [blank_start]dispersion[blank_end].

What 3 important changes occur as waves approach the coast

Label this diagram of wave refraction.

The [blank_start]node[blank_end] is the pivot point and the water level is displaced at the sides of a basin. The [blank_start]antinode[blank_end]s are the maximum vertical displacement of the water level

[blank_start]Internal[blank_end] waves travel at much slower speeds than [blank_start]surface[blank_end] waves.