wooden hand block printing using natural colours
around 400 to 500 years old
done by printing dark or coloured motifs on a cream or dyed background cloth
This process involves the use of natural colours for printing on the fabric using our pattern blocks.
practiced by the ‘chippas’ community in a remote town of Rajasthan which means ‘chhi’ -“to dye” and ‘pa’ -“to leave something to bask in sun”traditional
HARI SARANA – raw plain cloth is washed with the paste of cow-dung, soda and sesame seeds to make it free from any impurities and dried.
HARAD TREATMENT– The cloth is then soaked in a solution of water and harda — a natural mordant made from the myrobalan fruit to give a yellowish tint to the fabric. This produces light cream color background
SUN DRY -The fabric is then dried in the sun.
Wooden blocks used for printing are soaked overnight in mustard oil and then washed.
Printing is done on a wooden table to get neat and tidy stamping.
Then the dyed fabric is stamped with the beautiful designs known as blocks.
The dyeing process can be repeated over and over until the desired color is achieved.
After printing, the cloth is left for drying in the sun for a final touch-up.
Use traditional naturally extracted PLANT BASED PIGMENTS AND DYES for printing the cloth.
Blues are made from Indigo dye, stored in dye vats 10 to 12 feet deep.
Red colors (begar) are created by mixing varying proportions of alum (fitkari), madder and acacia arabica (also called babul gond) for obtaining different hues.
Alum is used for greys and syahi (fermented waste iron, jaggery, and water) for blacks.
Greens are obtained from indigo mixed with pomegranate.
Yellow from dried pomegranate, turmeric and dried flowers of Dhabaria.
most colors used are Eco-friendly
There are three types of blocks-
GUDH- It is the background block which is generally first stamped.
REKH- It is an outline block.
DATTA- These are filler blocks which complete the design.
The blocks or stamps are carved by a carver using drills, chisels, hammers, nails and files on wood following a particular design or motif.
Woods like Sagwaan (Teak), Sheesham (Indian Rosewood), or Rohida are often favored to design intricate and detailed motifs.
The patterns and motifs predominant in traditional Bagru prints were geometrical (circular) but were combined with bird, animal and floral forms to create beautiful designs.
1.FLOWERS AND BIRDS:
Traditionally called as Bada Bunta, Bankadi, Hajura, Bewada, Hara Dhania, Kel, Aath Kaliyan.
2. INTER-TWISTED TENDRILS:
These are used as ‘bels’ example Chota Bel, Kalam kali etc.
3. TRELLIS DESIGNS:
Developed under Persian influence. These are popularly called jaals in Bagru. Such motifs cover the entire body of the cloth. They are without borders.
4. FIGURATIVE DESIGNS:
These are animal, bird and human motifs, e.g., ‘hiran’ (deer), mayur’ (peacock), ‘sua’ (parrot).
5. GEOMETRICAL DESIGNS:
These are geometrical in shapes, e.g. ‘Leheriya’ (wave), ‘chaupad’ (check), ‘kanguras’ (triangular), ‘chatais’ (woven) pattern etc.
Most common type of cloth for Bagru printing and dyeing is cotton and similar materials like:
* Mulls or mulmul – Muslin in English. It is a fine soft cotton.
* Lattha -Type of cotton.
* Handloom fabrics– Cloth weaved without the use of any electricity.
* Dosuti fabrics– High grade quality handloom fabric.
* Khaddar cloth – Rough textured fabric
They are all Eco-friendly fabrics, therefore some extra care is required to keep the prints last longer. Washing them in cold water, avoid direct sun exposure and some other tips can keep them safe.
fabulous prints are highly used in contemporary fashion
used in enhancing the home decor with furnishings like bedsheets, cushions, quilts, curtains etc.
gained much appreciation in local and international market
adds to the cultural heritage of India