Zusammenfassung der Ressource
The coast
- Defenition: The coast is the area of
contact between the land and the
sea. These can be narrow strips,
with cliffs, or expansive areas, such
as wide sandy beaches or mudflats
- Waves
- The fetch - longer = powerful
- The strength of the wind
- The duration of the wind
- Britain's biggest wave: the Cribbar
off Fistral Beach, Newquay, Cornwall
- Constructive
- Smaller in height
- 'A powerful wave with a strong swash that surges up the beach'
- They carry large amounts of sediment and 'construct' the beach
- Distance storms can be 100s of Km away
- 6-8 per minute, loved by surfers, frequent in summer
and well spaced apart, push them up the beach
- Destructive
- Taller
- 'A wave formed by a
local storm that
crashed down onto a
beach and has a
strong backwash
- They
'destroy'
the beach
when they
pull the
sand
back with
strong
backwash
- 13-15
per
minute
- Local
storms
close
to the
coast
- Marine/wave processes
- Coastal erosion
- Hydraulic action
- The sheer power of the waves lashes
the coast, forcing air into tiny cracks.
The pressure of the compressed air,
blasted into holes and cracks in the
rocks weakens it and eventually
causes the rock to break apart
- Corrasion and abrasion
- corrasion: the sea hurls fragments of rock at
a coast which scrape and gouge the coast
- Abrasion: a sandpapering effect of pebbles
grinding over a rocky platform making it smooth
- Corrosion/solution
- Dissolving of rocks such as limestone and
chalk. Calcium carbonate in these rocks
reacts with the slightly acidic sea water
- Attrition
- Rocks and stones carried by the sea are knocked
into one another, making themselves smaller and
more rounded, helps to form out beaches
- Coastal transportation
- Traction
- Large pebbles
are rolled along
the seabed
- Saltation
- A 'hopping'
or 'bouncing'
motion of
particles too
heavy to be
suspended
- Suspension
- Particles
carried/suspended
within the water
- Solution
- Dissolved
chemical
often
derived
from
limestone
or chalk
- Longshore drift
- Transportation along the coast
- Coastal deposition
- When the sea loses energy it drops the sand, rock particles and pebbles it has been carrying
- It occurs when:
- Swash is stronger than the backwash
- Waves enter an area of shallow water
- Waves enter a
sheltered area
e.g. cove/bay
- There is little wind
- There is a good supply of material