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[blank_start]Waves[blank_end]: disturbances caused by movement of energy from a source through a medium.
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Waves work by transferring water mass across the ocean's surface.
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[blank_start]Progressive[blank_end] wave: movement of the waveform forward
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Check all that apply to orbital waves:
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particles of water move in closed circles as the wave passes
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occur at the boundary between two fluid media, air and water
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occur between layers of water of different densities
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movement of the waveform forward
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occur between layers of water of different salinities
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Energy is transferred from water particle to water particle in [blank_start]orbits[blank_end].
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orbits
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waves
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cha-cha slide
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Label the parts of the wave:
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[blank_start]Wave crest[blank_end]: highest part of the wave above the average water level
[blank_start]Wave trough[blank_end]: valley between wave crests below the average water level
[blank_start]Wavelength[blank_end]: horizontal distance between two successive crests or troughs
[blank_start]Wave height[blank_end]: vertical distance between a wave crestand adjacent trough
[blank_start]Wave period[blank_end]: time it takes for a wave to move adistance of one wavelength
[blank_start]Wave frequency[blank_end]: number of waves passing a fixed point per secong
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Wave crest
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Wave trough
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Wavelength
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Wave height
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Wave period
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Wave frequency
Frage 8
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Waves are classified by:
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disturbing force
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restoring force
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wavelength
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impact force
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wave height
Frage 9
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Disturbing force waves are caused by:
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wind
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storm surge
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sudden change in atmospheric pressure
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landslides, volcanic eruptions, earthquakes
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all of these answers are correct
Frage 10
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Tides are caused by:
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gravitational forces from Earth
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gravitational forces from moon
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gravitational forces from sun
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earth rotation
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global wave patterns
Frage 11
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are formed and propagates across the sea surface without further influence from the force
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are maintained by the disturbing force
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don't play by the tide's rules
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go "against the grain" of global ocean currents due to greater disturbing force
Frage 12
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are maintained by the disturbing force
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are formed and propagates across the sea surface without further influence from the force
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don't play by the tide's rules
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go "against the grain" of global ocean currents
Frage 13
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Tsunamis are examples of [blank_start]free waves[blank_end], while tides are examples of [blank_start]forced waves[blank_end].
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free waves
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forced waves
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forced waves
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free waves
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Restoring force waves...
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are the dominant force that returns the water surface to flatness
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often overcompensate and cause oscillations
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are caused by energy, like wind or storm surges
Frage 15
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[blank_start]Gravity[blank_end] waves pull the crests downward, inertia causes the crests to overshoot and become [blank_start]troughs[blank_end].
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Gravity
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Free
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Forced
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troughs
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crests
Frage 16
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Cohesion of water molecules
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Wind over ocean
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60-150 m (200-500 ft)
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Seafloor fault, eruption, landslide
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Gravity
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Seiche
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Gravitational attraction, Earth rotation
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Half Earth's circumference
Frage 17
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What determines the size of the orbits of water?
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Wavelength
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Wave height
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Wind
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Water depth
Frage 18
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What determines the shape of the orbits of water?
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Water depth
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Wavelength
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Wind
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Wave height
Frage 19
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Deep-water waves move through water deeper than [blank_start]half[blank_end] of their wavelength, and have [blank_start]round[blank_end] orbits. Shallow-water waves move in water shallower than [blank_start]1/20[blank_end] of their original wavelength, and have [blank_start]flattened[blank_end] orbits.
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half
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one-third
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1/20
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1/10
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round
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flattened
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1/20
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1/10
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half
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one-third
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flattened
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round
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_________________ waves form as wind friction stretches the water surface and as surface tension tries to resotre it to smoothness.
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Capillary
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Wind
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Rogue
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Seiche
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Tide
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___________ waves are gravity waves formed by the transfer of wind energy into water.
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Wind
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Capillary
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Rogue
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Tide
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Seiche
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[blank_start]Capillary[blank_end] waves become gravity waves as their wavelength exceeds [blank_start]1.74[blank_end] cm. These wind-induced gravity waves ([blank_start]wind[blank_end] waves) continue to grow as long as the wind above them exceeds their speed.
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Capillary
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Wind
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Tide
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1.74
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2.34
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1.94
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3.64
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wind
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capillary
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tide
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Wind waves will continue to grow as long as...
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the wind above them exceeds their speed.
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the force of gravity is less than the force of the wind on the surface of the water.
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you are waving back.
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the surface tension of the water is weaker than the force of the wind on the surface of the water.
Frage 24
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Waves traveling in groups is called...
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Check all that applies to a wave train:
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Leading wave transfers half of its energy forward to initiate motion in the undisturbed surface ahead
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Other half of energy is transferred behind to maintain wave motion
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Leading wave continuously disappears, while a new wave is continuously formed
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Waves are not actually traveling, but the lagging wave continuously disappears as a new wave formes in front, giving the illusion of movement
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Leading wave transfers 1/4 of its energy forward to initiate motion in the undisturbed surface ahead
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Which are factors affecting growing wind waves?
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wind strength
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wind duration
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fetch
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fully developed sea
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salinity
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density
Frage 27
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[blank_start]Wind strength[blank_end]: wind speed
[blank_start]Wind duration[blank_end]: time the wind blows
[blank_start]Fetch[blank_end]: uninterrupted distance over which the wind blows without a significant change in direction
[blank_start]Fully developed sea[blank_end]: maximum wave size possible for a wind of a specific strength, duration, and fetch
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Wind strength
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Wind duration
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Fetch
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Fully developed sea
Frage 28
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How long must a wind continuously flow for large wind waves to develop?
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2 days
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1 day
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1 week
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2 hours
Frage 29
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Wave interference can be _______ or _______.
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[blank_start]Destructive interference[blank_end]: two waves that cancel each other out, resulting in reduced or no wave
[blank_start]Constructive interference[blank_end]: additive interference that results in waves larger than the original waves
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________ waves: freak waves that occur due to interference and result in a wave crest higher than the theoretical maximum
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Rogue
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Tsunami
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Freak
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Interference
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[blank_start]Deep-water[blank_end] waves change to [blank_start]shallow-water[blank_end] waves as they approach shore.
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Deep-water
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Shallow-water
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shallow-water
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deep-water
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__________ waves: break violently against the store and leave and air-filled tobe/channel between the crest and foot of the wave.
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Plunging
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Rogue
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Freak
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Tube
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When are plunging waves formed?
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When waves approach shore over a steeply sloped bottom
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When waves approach shore over a shallowly sloped bottom
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When waves hit each other with destructive interference
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When waves hit each other with constructive interference
Frage 35
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waves breaking in a line paralell to shore
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waves breaking in a line perpendicular to shore
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the propagation of a wave around an opbstacle
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the wave that results after constructive interference
Frage 36
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the propagation of a wave around an obstacle
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waves breaking in a line parallel to shore
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waves breaking in a line perpendicular to shore
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the cancellation of two waves with destructive interference
Frage 37
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A [blank_start]tsunami[blank_end], or "harbor wave," is produced by [blank_start]water displacement[blank_end]. They are [blank_start]longer[blank_end] and [blank_start]faster[blank_end] than ordinary waves. They are [blank_start]shallow-water[blank_end] waves with wavelengths of up to [blank_start]150[blank_end] miles and can travel at over [blank_start]435[blank_end] mph. They [blank_start]are not[blank_end] very high in open ocean, but get [blank_start]bigger[blank_end] as they get closer to shore.
Antworten
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tsunami
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rogue wave
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water displacement
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wind
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ocean currents
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longer
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shorter
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faster
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slower
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shallow-water
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deep-water
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150
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15
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100
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10
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435
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235
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35
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135
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are not
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are
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bigger
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smaller