Frage | Antworten |
intertidal- high tide covered by water, low tide- exposed land | sub-tidal- always covered by water |
backshore- never covered by water | how are waves formed? By the wind blowing over a sea. it is basically the formation of ripples on the surface. |
what determines the wave size? the distance the wave travels and the strength of the wind. (THE FETCH) | the wind generates a ripple that gets bigger over distance.(fetch) |
SWASH= water runs up the beach/ shore BACKWASH=water returns to sea. | why do waves break? FRICTION reduces speed of the bottom section. |
constructive wave- smaller in height= less energy strong swash- pushes material up the beach. weak back wash- little erosion. | |
destructive waves- very tall- a lot of energy weak swash- little beach building strong backwash- pulls sand/shingle down beach= starves beach | |
air gets forced into rocks from the water (strong waves) rocks eventually - explode/break/fall off | constructive waves go further and have more power, stronger swash. they create a big and flat shaped beach. |
EROSION hydraulic power- the sheer power of waves abrasion- sand paper effect | EROSION attrition- the knocking together of pebbles, making them gradually smaller and smoother. eventually turns to sand. solution- dissolving of rocks e.g chalk |
weathering PHYSICAL- water freezes in cracks, the ice expands, rock shatters. CHEMICAL- weak acid in rain, dissolves limestone+chalk | weathering BIOLOGICAL- roots of plants crack rocks in the cliff face as they grow. weakens cliff face. nesting birds. SALT WEATHERING-salt crystals from when sea dries, rock crumbles/ diintergrates. |
mass movement- a movement of material down slope | factors for mass movement- heavy rain- adds weight to cliff/ reduces friction tectonic movement- e.g. earthquake weathering processes slope angle/ gradient, steepness of cliff |
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