Geography Coastal Zones Flashcards

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How are waves created? (4 points) Wind blows over the surface of the sea. Friction created causes a swell. The energy in the particles rotate and move forward.
Factors affection the size/ energy of a wave. Time: How long the wind has blown. Strength: Of the wind. Fetch: How far the waves have travelled.
the longer the fetch? The more damage!
Define: Swash The movement of the waves, entering the coast at an angle.
Define: Backwash. The return of the swash to he sea, goes out perpendicular to the coast.
Destructive waves... ♢Created in storms ♢Created over a long time ♢Erodes coast ♢Has a strong backwash ♢Has a short wavelength
Constructive waves... ♢Created in calm weather ♢Break on the shore ♢Deposit material (beaches) ♢Strong swash ♢Long wavelength ♢Short height
What types of waves occur when: The swash is stronger? Constructive waves
What types of waves occur when: The backwash is stronger? Destructive Waves
Destructive waves cause: Hydraulic action Air trapped in cracks of a cliff are compressed and weakens the cliff.
Destructive waves cause: Abrasion The Sandpaper Effect. Rocks and sand grind down cliff surfaces.
Destructive waves cause: Attrition Rocks bump into each other to become rounder and smoother.
Destructive waves cause: Solution Acids in the sea water dissolve weal rock such as limestone.
What is Transportation? When the swash and backwash bring in and return material to and from the sea.
What is meant by Longshore Drift (LSD)? The continuous movement of material to and from the sea (transportation).
COASTAL TRANSPORT: Solution Dissolved minerals in the sea.
COASTAL TRANSPORT: Suspension Small particles suspended at the surface of the sea
COASTAL TRANSPORT: Saltation Lightweight load is bounced along the sea bed.
COASTAL TRANSPORT: Traction Large load e.g. pebbles, are rolled along the seabed.
Where does deposition occur? ♢Sheltered areas ♢Where there is little wind ♢ Where there is a substantial amount of material.
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