Waves

[blank_start]Waves[blank_end]: disturbances caused by movement of energy from a source through a medium.

Waves work by transferring water mass across the ocean's surface.

[blank_start]Progressive[blank_end] wave: movement of the waveform forward

Check all that apply to orbital waves:

Energy is transferred from water particle to water particle in [blank_start]orbits[blank_end].

Label the parts of the wave:

[blank_start]Wave crest[blank_end]: highest part of the wave above the average water level [blank_start]Wave trough[blank_end]: valley between wave crests below the average water level [blank_start]Wavelength[blank_end]: horizontal distance between two successive crests or troughs [blank_start]Wave height[blank_end]: vertical distance between a wave crestand adjacent trough [blank_start]Wave period[blank_end]: time it takes for a wave to move adistance of one wavelength [blank_start]Wave frequency[blank_end]: number of waves passing a fixed point per secong

Waves are classified by:

Disturbing force waves are caused by:

Tides are caused by:

Free waves...

Forced waves...

Tsunamis are examples of [blank_start]free waves[blank_end], while tides are examples of [blank_start]forced waves[blank_end].

Restoring force waves...

[blank_start]Gravity[blank_end] waves pull the crests downward, inertia causes the crests to overshoot and become [blank_start]troughs[blank_end].

Label the table

What determines the size of the orbits of water?

What determines the shape of the orbits of water?

Deep-water waves move through water deeper than [blank_start]half[blank_end] of their wavelength, and have [blank_start]round[blank_end] orbits. Shallow-water waves move in water shallower than [blank_start]1/20[blank_end] of their original wavelength, and have [blank_start]flattened[blank_end] orbits.

_________________ waves form as wind friction stretches the water surface and as surface tension tries to resotre it to smoothness.

___________ waves are gravity waves formed by the transfer of wind energy into water.

[blank_start]Capillary[blank_end] waves become gravity waves as their wavelength exceeds [blank_start]1.74[blank_end] cm. These wind-induced gravity waves ([blank_start]wind[blank_end] waves) continue to grow as long as the wind above them exceeds their speed.

Wind waves will continue to grow as long as...

Waves traveling in groups is called...

Check all that applies to a wave train:

Which are factors affecting growing wind waves?

[blank_start]Wind strength[blank_end]: wind speed [blank_start]Wind duration[blank_end]: time the wind blows [blank_start]Fetch[blank_end]: uninterrupted distance over which the wind blows without a significant change in direction [blank_start]Fully developed sea[blank_end]: maximum wave size possible for a wind of a specific strength, duration, and fetch

How long must a wind continuously flow for large wind waves to develop?

Wave interference can be _______ or _______.

[blank_start]Destructive interference[blank_end]: two waves that cancel each other out, resulting in reduced or no wave [blank_start]Constructive interference[blank_end]: additive interference that results in waves larger than the original waves

________ waves: freak waves that occur due to interference and result in a wave crest higher than the theoretical maximum

[blank_start]Deep-water[blank_end] waves change to [blank_start]shallow-water[blank_end] waves as they approach shore.

__________ waves: break violently against the store and leave and air-filled tobe/channel between the crest and foot of the wave.

When are plunging waves formed?

Wave refraction:

Wave diffraction:

A [blank_start]tsunami[blank_end], or "harbor wave," is produced by [blank_start]water displacement[blank_end]. They are [blank_start]longer[blank_end] and [blank_start]faster[blank_end] than ordinary waves. They are [blank_start]shallow-water[blank_end] waves with wavelengths of up to [blank_start]150[blank_end] miles and can travel at over [blank_start]435[blank_end] mph. They [blank_start]are not[blank_end] very high in open ocean, but get [blank_start]bigger[blank_end] as they get closer to shore.