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Flashcards by georgia Rowcroft, updated more than 1 year ago
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| Question | Answer |
| How are waves created? (4 points) | Wind blows over the surface of the sea. Friction created causes a swell. The energy in the particles rotate and move forward. |
| Factors affection the size/ energy of a wave. | Time: How long the wind has blown. Strength: Of the wind. Fetch: How far the waves have travelled. |
| the longer the fetch? | The more damage! |
| Define: Swash | The movement of the waves, entering the coast at an angle. |
| Define: Backwash. | The return of the swash to he sea, goes out perpendicular to the coast. |
| Destructive waves... | ♢Created in storms ♢Created over a long time ♢Erodes coast ♢Has a strong backwash ♢Has a short wavelength |
| Constructive waves... | ♢Created in calm weather ♢Break on the shore ♢Deposit material (beaches) ♢Strong swash ♢Long wavelength ♢Short height |
| What types of waves occur when: The swash is stronger? | Constructive waves |
| What types of waves occur when: The backwash is stronger? | Destructive Waves |
| Destructive waves cause: Hydraulic action | Air trapped in cracks of a cliff are compressed and weakens the cliff. |
| Destructive waves cause: Abrasion | The Sandpaper Effect. Rocks and sand grind down cliff surfaces. |
| Destructive waves cause: Attrition | Rocks bump into each other to become rounder and smoother. |
| Destructive waves cause: Solution | Acids in the sea water dissolve weal rock such as limestone. |
| What is Transportation? | When the swash and backwash bring in and return material to and from the sea. |
| What is meant by Longshore Drift (LSD)? | The continuous movement of material to and from the sea (transportation). |
| COASTAL TRANSPORT: Solution | Dissolved minerals in the sea. |
| COASTAL TRANSPORT: Suspension | Small particles suspended at the surface of the sea |
| COASTAL TRANSPORT: Saltation | Lightweight load is bounced along the sea bed. |
| COASTAL TRANSPORT: Traction | Large load e.g. pebbles, are rolled along the seabed. |
| Where does deposition occur? | ♢Sheltered areas ♢Where there is little wind ♢ Where there is a substantial amount of material. |
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