Defenition: The coast is the area of
contact between the land and the
sea. These can be narrow strips,
with cliffs, or expansive areas, such
as wide sandy beaches or mudflats
Waves
The fetch - longer = powerful
The strength of the wind
The duration of the wind
Britain's biggest wave: the Cribbar
off Fistral Beach, Newquay, Cornwall
Constructive
Smaller in height
'A powerful wave with a strong swash that surges up the beach'
They carry large amounts of sediment and 'construct' the beach
Distance storms can be 100s of Km away
6-8 per minute, loved by surfers, frequent in summer
and well spaced apart, push them up the beach
Destructive
Taller
'A wave formed by a
local storm that
crashed down onto a
beach and has a
strong backwash
They
'destroy'
the beach
when they
pull the
sand
back with
strong
backwash
13-15
per
minute
Local
storms
close
to the
coast
Marine/wave processes
Coastal erosion
Hydraulic action
The sheer power of the waves lashes
the coast, forcing air into tiny cracks.
The pressure of the compressed air,
blasted into holes and cracks in the
rocks weakens it and eventually
causes the rock to break apart
Corrasion and abrasion
corrasion: the sea hurls fragments of rock at
a coast which scrape and gouge the coast
Abrasion: a sandpapering effect of pebbles
grinding over a rocky platform making it smooth
Corrosion/solution
Dissolving of rocks such as limestone and
chalk. Calcium carbonate in these rocks
reacts with the slightly acidic sea water
Attrition
Rocks and stones carried by the sea are knocked
into one another, making themselves smaller and
more rounded, helps to form out beaches
Coastal transportation
Traction
Large pebbles
are rolled along
the seabed
Saltation
A 'hopping'
or 'bouncing'
motion of
particles too
heavy to be
suspended
Suspension
Particles
carried/suspended
within the water
Solution
Dissolved
chemical
often
derived
from
limestone
or chalk
Longshore drift
Transportation along the coast
Coastal deposition
When the sea loses energy it drops the sand, rock particles and pebbles it has been carrying