Introduction: Enzymes are used in many
industries such as the food industry, the
medical industry and many other
industries. In this presentation, we will
be discussing enzymes in the fashion
industry in relation to stone washing and
the softening of cotton.
What are enzymes? Enzymes are catalytic
proteins. This means that they speed up chemical
reactions by lowering the activation energy
(Enzymes ).
What is stone washing? Stone washing is normally done
to denim. This is when the denim or jeans is made to
have a faded look and gives it a softer feel
(Stone-Washed vs. Acid-Washed Jeans, 2013).
The original stone washing method: Before the enzymes
need for stone washing was found, stone washing was
done by using pumice stones. These stones were added to
the fabric when washing which made the colour fade and
made the fabric feel softer (Types of stone wash & their
effects on the denim fabric, 2010).
Biostoning: Since using pumice stones to stone wash
jeans had a lot of disadvantages, Biostoning was
introduced. This is where cellulase is used instead of
pumice stones to give the denim a worn out look and
make it feel soft (Marrs, 2003).
Advantages of Biostoning • When using pumice stones, the
washing machine gets destroyed but with this enzyme, nothing
happens to the washing machine (Why Cellulase Important in
Stone Washing!). • The stones use to take up space in the washing
machine but with the enzymes, more clothes can be added
increasing the productivity (Why Cellulase Important in Stone
Washing!). • It reduces the damage done to the fabric (Why
Cellulase Important in Stone Washing!)
Disadvantages The cellulase processes produces back
staining of the fabric, which is when the dye stains the
fabric. As the chemical reaction of the cellulase takes place,
glucose is produced. When this happens, indigo dye is
released soiling the fabric and since the alkalinity and the
temperature of the water increases the amount of dye
released increases (Prasad).
How to solve the back staining problem: This
problem can be avoided by using oxidizing
agents. Since back staining happens because
glucose (reducing agent) is produced, the
oxidizing agents act on the glucose lessening
its reducing power. Acid liberating agents
are also used to reduce the acidity level
(Prasad).
The chemistry of Biostoning: Jeans has some
part of it made up of cotton, which has
cellulose. Since cellulase breaks down
cellulose, the bonds between the cellulose of
the fabric is broken down. When this
happens the dye of the denim is releases
giving the jeans a worn out, faded look and
also, makes the fabric feel softer (Chen)
Stages of Biostoning: The process of softening
and giving the fabric a worn out look has 5
stages; desizing this is where the starch on the
fabric is broken down, then washing the fabric,
adding cellulase to the fabric, washing it again
then finally softening it (Mohammad Shahid,
2016)
Cellulase: Cellulase is the enzyme, which is used for
stone washing of denim. Denim are cover with an
indigo dye. The cellulase allows the denim to
acquire the worn out look and the soft texture by
breaking the fiber ends on the yarn. The worn out
colour is acquired because some of the indigo dye
on the denim gets removed (JO, 2008) (Bhat, 2000).
Advantages of the enzymes: They do not pollute the
environment they are eco-friendly. Since the enzymes
do not destroy the fabric too much, the jeans are able
to last longer. The enzymes are easy to use because
you can control the amount of wear you want for the
fabric. The amount of waste produced is reduced
because unlike the stones, cellulase is biodegradable
(Uzzal)
Disadvantages of cellulase: Some of the
people working with the enzyme could be
allergic to the enzyme. Isolating and
modifying enzymes to do what you want is
very expensive (Jenny, 2012).
Components of cellulase: Cellulase is divided into 3 main
components; Endo beta glucanase which breaks down
cellulose and produce glucose as a product. Exo beta
glucanase, which breaks down the non-reducing end of
cellulase. Beta-glucosidase which hydrolysis cellobiase (Golan,
2011).
WORKS CITED
Anotações:
Works Cited
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Why Cellulase
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https://isbibbio.wikispaces.com/Softening+and+fading+of+denim-+The+Work+of+Enzymes
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(n.d.). A novel anti back staining method for denim garments: a
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