How do characteristic coastal landforms
contribute to coastal landscapes?
Marine transport and deposition
SPITS: when sediments carried by longshore drift come across a gap in the coastline, they are
carried for a short while in the same direction until they are deposited on the seabed.
Eventually so much is deposited that a spit is formed. It shelters the area behind it and
salt-resistant plants grow there. As the spit grows longer, the tides and currents form it into a
hook shape. We call this a recurved spit.
TOMBOLOS: ridges of sand and shingle between the mainland and an
island that forms as waves lose their energy and sediment is deposited
St. Ninian's (Shetland Islands)
BARS: when a spit extends across a bay to join two
headlands it forms a barrier beach, as a result of deposition
Start Bay
CUSPATE FORELANDS: triangular shaped headlands extending from the main
coastline as a result of longshore drift in two opposing directions
Dungeness, Kent
Longshore drift DIAGRAM
The sediment cell concept
There are 11 littoral cells in the UK and
each can be regarded as a closed system,
with sources, sinks and transfers
Within sediment cells there may be negative or
positive feedback. An example of negative feedback
is where erosion causes rock falls, which then
protects the cliff from further erosion
TRANSFERS
Longshore drift, wave transport through swash, tides
moving sediments in and out, currents and wind
SOURCES
Erosion of cliffs, land sediments eroded by rivers, subaerial
processes, shells and remains of marine organisms
SINKS
Depositional landforms e.g.
dunes, marshes and beaches
Marine erosion
Wave erosion processes
Hydraulic Action: explosion
of air cracks rock
Abrasion: waves pick
up rocks and throw
them at the cliff
Corrosion: dissolving
of certain rocks
Attrition: rounding of rocks
by collisoin with each other
Waves characteristics
Destructive waves: frequency of 13 to 15 waves
per minute, circular motion and a stronger
backwash removing sediment from a beach
Atlantic coasts of Norway or Scotland
Constructive waves: frequency of 8 or less per minute,
elliptical water motion, calmer conditions and a stronger
swash leading to deposition and transport of sediment
Mediterranean Sea coasts
Landforms of coastal erosion
Wave-cut notch
Wave-cut platform
Arches, caves, stacks and stumps
Geo and blowholes
Subaerial processes and coastal landforms
Weathering processes
Biological
e.g.
roots,
seaweed
acids
and
boring
molluscs
Mechanical
e.g.
freeze-thaw
or
salt
crystallization
Chemical
e.g.
oxidation
Landforms of coastal mass movement
Rock falls - occur on a steep cliff face when it is
weathered, which loosens rocks, and when
wave erosion has created a wave-cut notch so
that a section of the cliff is no longer supported
Block falls - occur on a slightly shallower gradient
but otherwise are similar to rock falls, where wave
processes erode the broken blocks, creating a pile
of debris at the bottom of the slope
Rotational slumping - in inconsolidated muds, sands and
clays, mass movement occurs in the form of rotational
slumps leaving a crescent-shaped scar above it on the cliff.
Vegetation layer usually remains intact on top of each slump
Flow - When there is plentiful water and a
higher clay content, mud flows may result,
which spill out over the foreshore
Holderness
How do coastal erosion and sea level change alter the
physical characteristics of coastlines and increase risks?
Kiribati: many of its islands could disappear in the next 50 years.
Groundwater is becoming contaminated by sea water as sea level
in some parts is rising by 1.2cm a year (4 times the global average
Sea-level change
Eustatic, isostatic and tectonic change
Eustatic:
Change in
sea level
(up or
down)
During an ice age, sea levels
fall; as the climate warms
up, water returns to the sea
Isostatic:
Change in
land level
relative to
sea level
Tectonic:
Change
shape
and size
of coasts,
can
create
new
coasts
Tectonic plates move
and collide, some bits
of land are pushed
upwards, tsunamis etc.
Emergent vs
submergent coastlines
E: Formed by isostatic rebound
Raised beach and fossil
cliffs
FC - Near-vertical slope initially
formed by marine processes
but now some distance inland
RB - Former beach now above the high tide
S: Formed by isostatic sinking
Fjard, fjords, rias and Dalmatian
coasts
R: A flooded river valley
FJO: Flooded glaciated valley (U-shaped valley)
FJA: Flooded inlet with lower banks than a
fjord, formed by post-glacial drowning
Climate
change and
sea-level rise
Coastal
retreat
Physical and human causes of coastal erosion
Physical: Most rapid recession will occur when rocks are
weaker, large destructive waves, submergence of the
coastline and constant weathering
Human: offshore dredging removes sand so waves could keep
circular motion leading to a higher impact, coastal defences in one
location could increase erosion further down the coast
Inaction? e.g. Do Nothing
Factors affecting rate of recession
Wind direction
Tides
Weather systems
Local and global influences on coastal flooding
Storm surges
Low air pressure over the sea --> water is able to rise
upwards --> dome of water forms --> dome of water surges
ashore when the low-pressure system moves near a coast
--> tropical cyclones together with storm surges can create
large storm waves --> massive erosion and sea level rise
CS: Bangladesh and sea-level
rise and storm surges
Why are coastal landscapes different,
and what processes cause these
differences?
Factors affecting coastal recession
Vegetation
Plant succession
Halophytes
Xerophytes
Psammosere
Absorb coastal
flooding
Buffer zones against waves and storms
Lithology
The rocks that make up the base of the land.
Igneous (cooled magmas), are more resistant
than sedimentary rocks (limestones)
Differential erosion
Permeability and porosity
Weathering
The role of vegetation
Salt marshes
(haloseres)
To promote the growth of
wildlife and create habitats
In a salt marsh (low-energy environment), pioneer plants trap sediment
which builds the salt marsh up to a higher level so that other plants can
then colonise. In a salt marsh you'd find salt grass and pickleweed
As more and more plants colonise, the amount of fauna increases
Sand dunes
(psammoseres)
To act as a physical barrier
Embryo dunes form first and
they grow by collecting more
sand, trapped by vegetation
Sand dunes are psammoseres that act as a physical barrier.
In a sand dune the plants hold the sand together and trap
more sand so the dunes can grow. You'd find Marram Grass
Coastal features and landscapes
The littoral zone
Dynamic equilibrium - inputs of sediments, weathering
on backshore, constructive and destructive waves,
offshore currents and longshore drift move sediments
Human activities can interfere, e.g. dredging of rivers to
make them deeper for ships or building coastal defences
Geological structure at different scales
Valentin's Classification of
Coasts
Concordant vs Discordant coasts
Coastal
morphology
Cuspate
foreland
Haff
coastline
Lagoons and
mudflats
Baltic
Sea
Headlands and
bays
Some cliff
profiles
Hog's back
cliff
Slumped
cliff
Inactive
cliff
Tropical cliff with
notch
How can coastlines be managed to
meet the needs of all players?
Managing the risks of erosion and flooding
Hard engineering methods
Groynes
A: cheapish, maintain the size of a
beach, enhanced access to beach
D: £1000 per metre, can be an obstacle,
unsightly, can cause narrower beaches
Sea wall
Revetments
Rip-rap
D: even natural rock can contrast with local
geology, access difficulties, safety hazard
A: long-lasting, can be placed at susceptible points
to protect sea-wall or used as a breakwater groyne
Gabions
Offshore breakwaters
D: costly between £1m and £2m, looks unsightly at low
tide, can increase deposition on the landward side
A: effective at protecting vulnerable sections of the coast, can
protect harbour entrances making it safer to enter and leave
Soft engineering methods
Beach nourishment
Cliff regrading
Dune stabilisation
Cliff drainage
Do Nothing
Holistic coastal management strategies
Environmental impact
assessment
Shoreline Management Plans
(SMPs)
Erosion and flood risk for coastal communities
CS: The consequences of coastal flooding for Australia
Anotações:
More than half of Australia's coast is vulnerable to erosion and retreat due to sea-level rise, especially in the state of Victoria where 80% of the coastline is at risk.
What is now considered a yearly flood could become daily by 2100. A 20cm rise in sea level wouldcause US$1.4bn. The environment will suffer as coral reefs will die if they are below 50mdeep. Total costs with a sea level rise of 1.1m in Australia would be AU$226bn.
CS: The consequences of coastal flooding for the Philippines
Anotações:
Out of all the countries in the 'coral triangle', the Philippines would be worse affected by sea level rise, costing approximately $6.5billion per year.
Many of the major cities and towns are built on the coast, leading to exploitation of natural resources and the removal of barriers such as mangrove forests, corals and seagrass.Up to 2.3 million people could be affected by a 1 metre rise.In the city of San Fernando, a 2012 study estimated that by 2100 property losses will be about $2.5 million.