Questão 1
Questão
[blank_start]Waves[blank_end]: disturbances caused by movement of energy from a source through a medium.
Questão 2
Questão
Waves work by transferring water mass across the ocean's surface.
Questão 3
Questão
[blank_start]Progressive[blank_end] wave: movement of the waveform forward
Questão 4
Questão
Check all that apply to orbital waves:
Responda
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particles of water move in closed circles as the wave passes
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occur at the boundary between two fluid media, air and water
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occur between layers of water of different densities
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movement of the waveform forward
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occur between layers of water of different salinities
Questão 5
Questão
Energy is transferred from water particle to water particle in [blank_start]orbits[blank_end].
Responda
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orbits
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waves
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cha-cha slide
Questão 6
Questão
Label the parts of the wave:
Questão 7
Questão
[blank_start]Wave crest[blank_end]: highest part of the wave above the average water level
[blank_start]Wave trough[blank_end]: valley between wave crests below the average water level
[blank_start]Wavelength[blank_end]: horizontal distance between two successive crests or troughs
[blank_start]Wave height[blank_end]: vertical distance between a wave crestand adjacent trough
[blank_start]Wave period[blank_end]: time it takes for a wave to move adistance of one wavelength
[blank_start]Wave frequency[blank_end]: number of waves passing a fixed point per secong
Responda
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Wave crest
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Wave trough
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Wavelength
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Wave height
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Wave period
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Wave frequency
Questão 8
Questão
Waves are classified by:
Responda
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disturbing force
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restoring force
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wavelength
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impact force
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wave height
Questão 9
Questão
Disturbing force waves are caused by:
Responda
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wind
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storm surge
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sudden change in atmospheric pressure
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landslides, volcanic eruptions, earthquakes
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all of these answers are correct
Questão 10
Questão
Tides are caused by:
Responda
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gravitational forces from Earth
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gravitational forces from moon
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gravitational forces from sun
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earth rotation
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global wave patterns
Questão 11
Responda
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are formed and propagates across the sea surface without further influence from the force
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are maintained by the disturbing force
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don't play by the tide's rules
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go "against the grain" of global ocean currents due to greater disturbing force
Questão 12
Responda
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are maintained by the disturbing force
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are formed and propagates across the sea surface without further influence from the force
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don't play by the tide's rules
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go "against the grain" of global ocean currents
Questão 13
Questão
Tsunamis are examples of [blank_start]free waves[blank_end], while tides are examples of [blank_start]forced waves[blank_end].
Responda
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free waves
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forced waves
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forced waves
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free waves
Questão 14
Questão
Restoring force waves...
Responda
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are the dominant force that returns the water surface to flatness
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often overcompensate and cause oscillations
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are caused by energy, like wind or storm surges
Questão 15
Questão
[blank_start]Gravity[blank_end] waves pull the crests downward, inertia causes the crests to overshoot and become [blank_start]troughs[blank_end].
Responda
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Gravity
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Free
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Forced
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troughs
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crests
Questão 16
Responda
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Cohesion of water molecules
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Wind over ocean
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60-150 m (200-500 ft)
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Seafloor fault, eruption, landslide
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Gravity
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Seiche
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Gravitational attraction, Earth rotation
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Half Earth's circumference
Questão 17
Questão
What determines the size of the orbits of water?
Responda
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Wavelength
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Wave height
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Wind
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Water depth
Questão 18
Questão
What determines the shape of the orbits of water?
Responda
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Water depth
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Wavelength
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Wind
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Wave height
Questão 19
Questão
Deep-water waves move through water deeper than [blank_start]half[blank_end] of their wavelength, and have [blank_start]round[blank_end] orbits. Shallow-water waves move in water shallower than [blank_start]1/20[blank_end] of their original wavelength, and have [blank_start]flattened[blank_end] orbits.
Responda
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half
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one-third
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1/20
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1/10
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round
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flattened
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1/20
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1/10
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half
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one-third
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flattened
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round
Questão 20
Questão
_________________ waves form as wind friction stretches the water surface and as surface tension tries to resotre it to smoothness.
Responda
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Capillary
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Wind
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Rogue
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Seiche
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Tide
Questão 21
Questão
___________ waves are gravity waves formed by the transfer of wind energy into water.
Responda
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Wind
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Capillary
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Rogue
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Tide
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Seiche
Questão 22
Questão
[blank_start]Capillary[blank_end] waves become gravity waves as their wavelength exceeds [blank_start]1.74[blank_end] cm. These wind-induced gravity waves ([blank_start]wind[blank_end] waves) continue to grow as long as the wind above them exceeds their speed.
Responda
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Capillary
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Wind
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Tide
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1.74
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2.34
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1.94
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3.64
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wind
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capillary
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tide
Questão 23
Questão
Wind waves will continue to grow as long as...
Responda
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the wind above them exceeds their speed.
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the force of gravity is less than the force of the wind on the surface of the water.
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you are waving back.
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the surface tension of the water is weaker than the force of the wind on the surface of the water.
Questão 24
Questão
Waves traveling in groups is called...
Questão 25
Questão
Check all that applies to a wave train:
Responda
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Leading wave transfers half of its energy forward to initiate motion in the undisturbed surface ahead
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Other half of energy is transferred behind to maintain wave motion
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Leading wave continuously disappears, while a new wave is continuously formed
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Waves are not actually traveling, but the lagging wave continuously disappears as a new wave formes in front, giving the illusion of movement
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Leading wave transfers 1/4 of its energy forward to initiate motion in the undisturbed surface ahead
Questão 26
Questão
Which are factors affecting growing wind waves?
Responda
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wind strength
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wind duration
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fetch
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fully developed sea
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salinity
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density
Questão 27
Questão
[blank_start]Wind strength[blank_end]: wind speed
[blank_start]Wind duration[blank_end]: time the wind blows
[blank_start]Fetch[blank_end]: uninterrupted distance over which the wind blows without a significant change in direction
[blank_start]Fully developed sea[blank_end]: maximum wave size possible for a wind of a specific strength, duration, and fetch
Responda
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Wind strength
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Wind duration
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Fetch
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Fully developed sea
Questão 28
Questão
How long must a wind continuously flow for large wind waves to develop?
Responda
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2 days
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1 day
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1 week
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2 hours
Questão 29
Questão
Wave interference can be _______ or _______.
Questão 30
Questão
[blank_start]Destructive interference[blank_end]: two waves that cancel each other out, resulting in reduced or no wave
[blank_start]Constructive interference[blank_end]: additive interference that results in waves larger than the original waves
Questão 31
Questão
________ waves: freak waves that occur due to interference and result in a wave crest higher than the theoretical maximum
Responda
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Rogue
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Tsunami
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Freak
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Interference
Questão 32
Questão
[blank_start]Deep-water[blank_end] waves change to [blank_start]shallow-water[blank_end] waves as they approach shore.
Responda
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Deep-water
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Shallow-water
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shallow-water
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deep-water
Questão 33
Questão
__________ waves: break violently against the store and leave and air-filled tobe/channel between the crest and foot of the wave.
Responda
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Plunging
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Rogue
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Freak
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Tube
Questão 34
Questão
When are plunging waves formed?
Responda
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When waves approach shore over a steeply sloped bottom
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When waves approach shore over a shallowly sloped bottom
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When waves hit each other with destructive interference
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When waves hit each other with constructive interference
Questão 35
Responda
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waves breaking in a line paralell to shore
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waves breaking in a line perpendicular to shore
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the propagation of a wave around an opbstacle
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the wave that results after constructive interference
Questão 36
Questão
Wave diffraction:
Responda
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the propagation of a wave around an obstacle
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waves breaking in a line parallel to shore
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waves breaking in a line perpendicular to shore
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the cancellation of two waves with destructive interference
Questão 37
Questão
A [blank_start]tsunami[blank_end], or "harbor wave," is produced by [blank_start]water displacement[blank_end]. They are [blank_start]longer[blank_end] and [blank_start]faster[blank_end] than ordinary waves. They are [blank_start]shallow-water[blank_end] waves with wavelengths of up to [blank_start]150[blank_end] miles and can travel at over [blank_start]435[blank_end] mph. They [blank_start]are not[blank_end] very high in open ocean, but get [blank_start]bigger[blank_end] as they get closer to shore.
Responda
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tsunami
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rogue wave
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water displacement
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wind
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ocean currents
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longer
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shorter
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faster
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slower
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shallow-water
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deep-water
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150
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15
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100
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10
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435
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235
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35
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135
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are not
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are
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bigger
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smaller